Philadelphia's Upscale Cuban Cuisine
April 10, 2008
Originally published in The Wall Street Journal
Filed under: Food & Dining
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Philadelphia's restaurant renaissance was born in the late 1990s, and it shows little sign of slowing down. One of the charms of the city's foodie scene is the number of upscale ethnic restaurants, including a small village's worth of Cuban and Latin eateries, which tend to be less stuffy than their power-dining counterparts. Whether eating solo or hosting a client, here are some suggestions for business travelers looking for a respite from the typical business lunch.

Solo Dining: Cuba Libre
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Cuba Libre's dining room


The spot: Best known for its convivial atmosphere, Cuba Libre offers numerous people-watching opportunities for the solo business traveler. Chef Guillermo Pernot, who has racked up several awards, including a 2002 James Beard Award for his now-closed venture, ¡Pasión!, is at the helm of this 8,000-sq.-ft. tropical-styled oasis. The main dining room resembles an outdoor courtyard with palm trees; the second floor dining room surrounds the main one and is visible through wrought-iron balconies. When the weather shows even the slightest hint of balminess, diners come in as early as 5 p.m. for the restaurant's sunny ambiance.

Location: Nestled in the heart of Old City, Philadelphia's historic district, the eight-year-old restaurant is among the many boutiques, galleries and bars in the area. On the first Friday of each month, Old City galleries stay open late, drawing the city's residents out into the streets. By day, this area is busy with tourists peeking at Betsy Ross's house or the new National Constitution Center.

What to get: The warm toasted flatbread is served with a heavenly mango butter. The fire-and-ice ceviche -- tuna steeped in coconut milk, ginger and jalapenos, served in a coconut shell over dry ice -- turns heads when it comes to the table. For entrees, the saffron-infused arroz on pollo (chicken with rice) and ropa vieja (shredded beef stewed with tomatoes) are Cuban comfort foods raised to high art.

Tips for the solo diner: The tables on the terrace (open during fair weather only) are the most-popular spots for people watching – both inside and out. On weekend nights, professional dancers put on a twice-nightly salsa show in the center of the dining room. This part of town has a vibrant nightlife, but it skews young; go earlier in the evening to avoid late-night rowdiness.

Working Dinner: Alma de Cuba
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Alma de Cuba's private room


The spot: Restaurateur Stephen Starr, owner of several swanky eateries throughout Philadelphia, Atlantic City and New York City, is behind Alma de Cuba, a haute Cuban experience curated by chef Douglas Rodriguez. The three-story building houses two dining rooms, a private room and a lounge on the first floor. The downstairs lounge is styled like a verandah in perpetual summer dusk. The upstairs dining rooms, in crisp white and warm chocolate hues, are quieter and offer seating for large parties.

Location: Just steps from Rittenhouse Square, Alma de Cuba is easily reached on foot from most of the major Center City hotels, including the Park Hyatt, the Ritz Carlton and the Sofitel.

What to get: In addition to an extensive rum menu, Alma de Cuba has three versions of mojitos, using different types of rum. Consider any of the fresh ceviches, such as the sweet Ecuadorian shrimp with roasted tomatoes, to start. The vaca frita is a twice-fried skirt steak served with sweet onions over a fragrant white rice. The lechon asado is a crispy pork with garlic mojo served over a creamy yuca mash. Don't skip the chocolate cigar, an almond-cake and chocolate-mousse confection, for dessert.

Tips for the business meal: The food and the service are top-notch without fussiness or pretension. Whether it's the soft Cuban music or the endless-summer ambiance, the restaurant invites relaxing conversations over power negotiations. Between the lunch and dinner rushes, an abridged menu is available. The Tobacco Room, the private dining space, seats up to 35 diners, but requires a 30-person minimum.

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