The Fall 2009 collections that premiered for the press and buyers at last week's New York fashion week were created last fall, amid lackluster consumer confidence and slashed retail prices.

Many designers said that because of this, they tried to straddle pragmatic business options (making sure to include classic black trousers, in Duckie Brown's case, for example) with eye-popping looks that tugged at consumer's heart-strings (Diane von Furstenberg's luxe coats). We asked a few designers how they designed for the downturn.

"I formulated my collection in much more of an itemized way, so it was 'I must have this,' " said Alice & Olivia designer Stacy Bendet. The new collection, which includes embellished T-shirts and flirty party dresses, was intended "to make it a little bit easier for the buyers, so they felt more comfortable buying the things that they knew were going to sell right away."

"If you want to excite people, you have to be excited yourself," said Diane von Furstenberg. "I really wanted to make real clothes more than ever. I wanted every piece to be really relevant." Ms. von Furstenberg added that last season's woes were caused in part by a glut of inventory. For Fall 2009, she said she dropped some stores from carrying her line, although she declined to name specifics. "What we need to do is shrink the supply and create the demand. It's as simple as that."

Menswear brand Duckie Brown, meanwhile, has picked up a few more customers for its luxury line, including Nomad in Toronto and Goat in Costa Mesa, Calif. Still, designers Daniel Silver and Stephen Cox note that their most recent collection showcases a restraint influenced by the economy. Although the collection is filled with dark neutrals, some looks were punctuated with neon accessories. "In a financial crisis, people also want something that is joyous," Mr. Silver said.

Banana Republic creative director Simon Kneen, who is currently finishing up the retailer's fall collection, due to debut next month, agrees. "There are going to be moments of optimism over the next 12 months, especially when the weather gets better," he says. That said, Gap Inc. is leveraging a stronger dollar overseas to negotiate lower prices with international suppliers, he said. "We're being very cautious about taking the quality away."

"We had the same approach we've always had: make a high-quality product and offer it at a reasonable price," designer Jill Stuart said. "Don't gouge your buyer and eventually you'll make a lifelong customer."

"Optimism, optimism, optimism. It's crazy to think that things are going to to stay the way they are," Mr. Kneen added. "But if you don't change with them, then you're not going to be around."