'Top Chef Masters,' Season 2, Episode 4: TV Recap
April 29, 2010
Originally published in WSJ Speakeasy blog
Filed under: Food & Dining / Top Chef
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Top Chef Masters recap by Elva Ramirez

When Andy Cohen told us that "some very intense people" made it through to the Top Chef Masters Champions round, he wasn't kidding. Cohen was clearly referring to Susur Lee, who has a samurai-esque ponytail and likens chefs to ninjas and kung fu masters. This guy, in a word, is awesome.

But first: this week's contenders include Maria Hines, Rick Tramonto, Jody Adams and Debbie Gold. This week's Quickfire challenge was to stylize a fruit plate, with the winner moving on to the Champions round. Figs are roasted, walnut tarts are baked, and pineapple is turned into a ravioli. Rialto's Jody Adams takes the win with her fig and walnut tart.

Jody's win doesn't sit well with Susur, who all but shakes his fist during his confessional. "[WTF] is that? That makes me very motivated," he says. "Ok! I'm going to show you!"

Susur says he called his wife looking for comfort after he lost to Adams. Mrs. Lee would have none of that. "She said, shut the hell up! I don't want to listen to that bulls****! Go out there and fight!" And so, the self-described "chef gypsy" girds for battle -- and takes off his shoes. While the other chefs raise eyebrows, Susur scurries about in socks, oblivious to spills or dust bunnies. "Being a chef is like being a ninja," he says, without irony.

This week's challenge: make a modern family dinner for ABC's iPad-loving show, "Modern Family."

The dishes served to "Modern Family's" cast and crew include salmon almondine, escarole with beans and sausage, pork belly with applesauce and braised chicken thighs with mushrooms and tomatoes. "The word 'master' means you have to be good at everything," Susur says, as he whips up a farce curry chicken and, for the vegetarians, polenta with grits and a tomato chutney.

Although the cameras find an older gent who sniffs at the curry and declares it "too exotic" for him, Chef Lee's curry is so widely beloved that he goes on to score a whopping 19.5 stars out of possible 20, the highest TCM elimination score to date. (Each judge gives him five stars.)

Jody Adams, who was guaranteed a spot in Champions, proves no slouch, either. She earned second place with 14.5 stars, proving she would have moved on even without the Quickfire's assist.

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